Samgaran Sanctuary - Belly dance costuming

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Belly dance costuming (Read 9507 times)

Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Belly dance costuming Sep 5^th, 2010 at 3:09am
	One of the great things about belly dance, besides the dance itself, is costuming. I sew and I'm pretty good at it so I make my costumes. I favor the "bra and belt" styles popular in the 70's when I first got interested in dancing. I wasn't able to pursue my interest then but now I am and although only my family is likely to ever see me dance I still enjoy making costumes. So I'm going to post here, "How To" articles, probably with some pictures, about the art, craft and science of dance costuming and if anyone else wants to join in, feel free.
	« Last Edit: Jan 25^th, 2012 at 10:26pm by Penthesilea »

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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #1 - Jan 25^th, 2012 at 10:04pm
	I LOVE THIS OUTFIT!!! I have GOT to figure out how the skirt is made and HOW it stays in place without spirit gum or staples!

	Sandra_in_Black.jpg ( 61 KB \| Downloads )
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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #2 - Jan 25^th, 2012 at 10:23pm
	I love this one too.

	Carrie_Konyha_in_red.jpg ( 46 KB \| Downloads )
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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #3 - Jan 25^th, 2012 at 10:24pm
	And a close up of the above outfit....

	Carrie_in_Red_closeup.png ( 322 KB \| Downloads )
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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #4 - Jan 26^th, 2012 at 3:56am
	DYI: Six Yard Skirt a.k.a. Straight gathered skirt with splits Original Source: The Compleat Bellydancer by Julie Russo Mishkin & Marta Schill Doubleday Copyright 1973 Materials: 6 yards of sheer chiffon or chiffon like fabric in the color of your choice, 36 to 58 inches in width. If you do not have access to a regular cutting table, it is a good idea to have the clerk cut the panels at the time of purchase. Have one piece cut at four feet (1 and 1/3 yards) and the other at fourteen feet (4 and 2/3 yards). 1 3 yard package of 1 inch wide, non-roll elastic. Thread to match. Thread in a contrasting color for basting. Narrow, lightweight trim if desired. Step 1. If the fabric has not yet been cut into sections, fold it over, making sure that the selvages are even and that the middle fold is smooth.� Pin the selvages together to keep them from slipping.� Carefully pin a piece of newspaper over where you will be cutting the fabric, measure and draw a cutting line on the paper. Then put pins down each side of the line no more than a couple of inches apart.� Carefully turn the fabric over to check for unwanted folds or gathers.� If there are any, take out the nearest pins, smooth them out and replace the pins then carefully turn the fabric over and cut along the line. Step 2. On each raw edge, turn one half inch to the inside, pin and turn again. Using a needle and contrasting thread, baste the hem with a running stitch. Then hem using either a machine or by hand stitching. Step 3. Take one section and fold over one half inch, pin and then fold over an inch and a half to make a casing for the waistband elastic. Pin and then baste. Check to make sure that the casing is straight. Adjust if necessary and stitch using a machine stitch.� Repeat with the second section. Step 4.� �Determining the length of the skirt Measure your hips where you want the skirt to rest.� Add a minimum of one inch to the measurement and cut the elastic to that length. Thread the elastic through the casing on both sections of the skirt. Overlap the elastic and secure with a safety pin. Put on the skirt.� The bottom of the skirt should fall at your ankle when your knees are slightly bent. [Remember that many moves are performed with your knees bent.] Have someone measure from the top of the skirt to your ankle.� Record this measurement.� If you want a narrow hem on your skirt, add one inch to this measurement. If you want a deeper hem, add the width of the hem plus a half inch. Step 5. Cutting the skirt to length. [This is the hard part!] Take the elastic out of the casing and thread the sections onto a cafe style curtain rod and hang it where you can work on it.� If possible, let the skirt hang overnight so that if it is going to stretch, it will do it before it is hemmed.� �Measure down from the top of the skirt. Using the measurement you got in Step 4, mark the spot with a pin. This is the cutting line. Step 6.� �Cutting the skirt to length -- continued. Continue measuring and marking� across the bottom of both sections. When you are finished, take a needle and and thread and mark the cutting line with a long running stitch. Use contrasting thread. When you are done, you will be able to see how straight -- nor not -- the hem is.� Adjust as necessary. When you are as certain as you can be that the cutting line is as straight and even as you can make it, carefully cut along the running stitch.� When you� are finished, take the sections off of the curtain rod. Step 7. Take one section and turn under one half inch on the raw edge and pin.� Then fold the fabric up to the finished length of the skirt. Pin and then baste.� �Repeat with the second section. Then put both sections back on the curtain rod to make sure that both sections are the same length at the splits. Take one section off of the curtain rod and put it on the other end of the rod to check the length of the other two sides. Adjust as necessary. When the hem is straight and even, hem either by hand or with machine stitching. Remove basting. Step 8. Thread elastic through the casing. Overlap the ends and secure with a safety pin. Check the fit and adjust as necessary. Position the splits over the front of the legs and determine how much gap, if any, you want between the sections. Carefully pin the sections into place with straight pins once you are satisfied with the position and width of the splits. Sew the elastic together either by hand or by machine. Hand stitch the edges of the splits to the elastic. Step 9. If desired, add lightweight trim to the skirt.�
	« Last Edit: Nov 18^th, 2012 at 3:35am by Penthesilea »

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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #5 - Jan 26^th, 2012 at 4:07am
	DIY: Three Yard Veil Materials: 3 yards of chiffon or chiffon type fabric, 36 to� 45 inches wide. Thread to match. Step 1. Even out the raw edges, if necessary, so the edges of the veil are straight. On one raw edge, fold over one half inch and pin. Fold again and pin. Check to be sure that the edge is straight and baste with a running stitch and contrasting thread. Step 2. Once you�re satisfied that the hem is straight and even, hand stitch the hem in. Repeat with the other raw edge. Hemming the selvage edges is optional. Step 3. Add lightweight trim if desired. Use caution when adding trim since too much trim or trim that is too heavy will affect� the handling of the veil. Larger veils can be made the same way and are used, especially by taller dancers.


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #6 - Feb 3^rd, 2012 at 9:16pm
	I have looking for a pretty "cover up" to put on after practice or performing. I hadn't had much luck, everything looked like a bathrobe or frumpy housecoat. I decided to see if anything new had been added to the pattern catalogs and lo! I found something! I'll probably make up at least two, one to put on when I'm done with practice (it is CHILLY in the basement) and another to wear over a costume until I can change clothes. I don't "plan" on performing publicly but who knows? The pattern is Butterick B4406. I hope that I can get it this weekend. I don't know what I'm going to make it out of yet but I'll start getting ideas once I have the pattern in hand....

	B4406_cropped.png ( 167 KB \| Downloads )
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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #7 - Feb 6^th, 2012 at 3:52am
	.... at some point I'm gonna have to make a skirt with really WIDE splits..... Of course I doubt that I'll get my legs to look like hers without extensive lipo but a girl can dream....

	208455_197792806926530_197782460260898_493982_4014314_n.jpg ( 61 KB \| Downloads )
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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #8 - Feb 12^th, 2012 at 1:43am
	Penthesilea wrote on Feb 3^rd, 2012 at 9:16pm: I have looking for a pretty "cover up" to put on after practice or performing. I hadn't had much luck, everything looked like a bathrobe or frumpy housecoat. I decided to see if anything new had been added to the pattern catalogs and lo! I found something! I'll probably make up at least two, one to put on when I'm done with practice (it is CHILLY in the basement) and another to wear over a costume until I can change clothes. I don't "plan" on performing publicly but who knows? The pattern is Butterick B4406. I hope that I can get it this weekend. I don't know what I'm going to make it out of yet but I'll start getting ideas once I have the pattern in hand.... I finally got the pattern today. I picked up both sizes (they are packaged with multiple sizes in each envelope) and some fancy silver buttons for the "dressy" one I'm going to make. The first one will be "practice" both for my learning the pattern and for use after I'm done with dance practice. The second one will be of a "nicer" more luxurious fabric, maybe with some extra trim, to wear over a costume. Yeah, I know. I have no plans to perform live for anyone but family, close friends and "men I intend to sleep with" but those are very important people and I like to be prepared......


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #9 - Jun 14^th, 2012 at 1:11am
	During my prowling on the web, I came across a photo of a dancer who had made a skirt of silver tissue lame. This discovery has my feverish little brain scheming uncontrollably. I LOVE metallic silver and tissue lame IS the right weight for a 6 yard skirt. I've encountered some technical problems when working with it but I think that they could be overcome. I shall have to price it the next time I'm in Walmart.....


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #10 - Nov 15^th, 2012 at 6:49pm
	snipsnipsnipsnipsnippitysnip! I have a bright red "Joe Boxer" plunge bra that's going to be transformed into a bright red belly dance bra. I'm not sure yet what I'll be doing with it as far as embellishment is concerned but the first step is to "increase the exposure." The one/only thing I dislike about professionally made bra/belt sets -- even/especially those done by the "high end" costumers -- is that they are too dang modest! This is done out of consideration of the fact that professional dancers and even some amateurs could perform for Middle Eastern audiences, some of whom are rather Puritanical when it comes to a dancer's attire. That is why you will frequently see dancers -- usually those dancing in the Egyptian style -- wearing skin tight evening gowns to dance in or they'll wear a body stocking under what we in the West think of as a "traditional" belly dance costume. Of course, a dancer who fills her cups to overflowing would likely want more coverage but I don't fall into that category and since it is my firm intention that only "family, close friends and men I intend to sleep with" will see me dancing in any of my costumes, I have a bit more freedom when it comes to costume design. So the first thing I'm doing is redesigning the bra cups to bring them into line with what I consider an agreeable amount of cleavage.


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #11 - Nov 16^th, 2012 at 6:37pm
	As mentioned elsewhere, I got some costuming books today. NOW I'm getting ideas for another set I've been wanting to make "Warrior Born" -- visualized as a "Dark Sonja meets Xena" fusion. I'm hopeless but I'm having fun!


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #12 - Nov 18^th, 2012 at 3:33am
	I've gotten both sides of the red bra cut down to size. The next step is to add a couple of layers of heavy, non-fusible interfacing to the cups before I cover them with satin. The cups are foam with rubberized material on either side. Nice and light with no seams but damned hard to get a needle into, so if I'm gonna put pretties on it -- and I am! -- I need to add a layer or two of something under the satin to sew them to! I've also been reminded why I HATE back closure bras but finding front closure ones that fit the specs for a costume bra is a pain. Going through these new books I have, I've discovered that my preferred skirt style is nowhere to be seen. I got it from one of the first bellydancing books I ever found: The Compleat Bellydancer by Julie Russo Mishkin & Marta Schill. Published by Doubleday in 1973. I guess it's really "retro." LOL


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #13 - Nov 18^th, 2012 at 7:02pm
	As noted elsewhere, I decided to convert the bra to front closure and I've managed to get the front closure installed. I needed needle nosed pliers to pull the needle through all the layers of the bra. I was right. The innards of this bra are gonna be a pain to sew anything to.


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #14 - Nov 19^th, 2012 at 2:50am
	I've managed to get all the raw edges sewn down so I can try on the bra without risking getting poked by a straight pin. I'll probably do the back band next and then figure out the best arrangement for the shoulder straps. The bra is an underwire but not really padded. I'm considering adding some pads to it but haven't decided yet.
	« Last Edit: Nov 19^th, 2012 at 2:52am by Penthesilea »

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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #15 - Nov 19^th, 2012 at 4:39am
	I went ahead and ordered some pads -- Amazon saves me a trip to the fabric store again! -- and I'll stick them in and if they work, I'll stitch them in. Otherwise I'll use them in another bra.


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #16 - Nov 20^th, 2012 at 8:10pm
	I dug through boxes and bins last night and found that I didn't have what I needed for shoulder straps so I swung through the craft department at Walmart today and got what I needed which is extra wide double fold bias tape. Most sources say to use grograin ribbon for shoulder straps in most instances but that seems to "flimsy" to me so I take the bias tape, wrap it around a strip of really heavy non-woven interfacing and stitch it closed with the sewing machine. This gives me a nice, non-stretchy color matched strip that I can make my shoulder straps out of. I haven't decided exactly what style of strap I'm going to use on this one. The previous one I made has the straps anchored in the "traditional" spots in front with the ends in the back anchored side by side in the center of the back band. That works pretty well but I kinda want to do them differently on this one so I'll be thinking about it while cooking this week.
	« Last Edit: Nov 20^th, 2012 at 8:18pm by Penthesilea »

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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #17 - Nov 25^th, 2012 at 3:24am
	I got the pads today and decided to save them for another outfit. I tried them out and the bra is cut too low to accommodate them. So, I'll save them for use in another design that isn't cut as low... STOP LAUGHING! I can be modest..... reasonably...... okay... a little. Post # 26,777
	« Last Edit: Nov 25^th, 2012 at 4:53pm by Penthesilea »

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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #18 - Nov 26^th, 2012 at 2:09am
	I did a little work on the bra today until my patience gave out. It is darn hard to fit a bra on yourself...


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #19 - Nov 26^th, 2012 at 3:39am
	The straps are going to be decorated with silver double loop braid but I can't decide if I should embellish the braid with red beads (like I usually do) or with black or gunmetal ones. This will require thought and "testing" to get Skywise's opinion.

	metallic_silver_double_loop_braid_trim_dove_originals.JPG ( 52 KB \| Downloads )
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Veridian Etoile God Member Offline Posts: 14993 Location: Writing La La Land Joined: Apr 11^th, 2011 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #20 - Nov 26^th, 2012 at 4:20am
	Any of them would probably look good in my opinion. I like all of the colors you mentioned so I could be a tad biased... LOL!

	We creative types have to create in order to feel ALIVE... That's why I write. Without my writing, I would not be living, only existing. ~Me~ Music is essential to life. ~Me~ I'm sunny natured with a side of EVIL...
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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #21 - Nov 29^th, 2012 at 12:09am
	LOL I might save the gunmetal beads for another design I have in mind. As it is, the back band I designed isn't working out like I'd hoped and I may have to go back to the cutting board. Fortunately, there's no time pressure. I can take as much time as I need to get it the way I want it.
	« Last Edit: Nov 29^th, 2012 at 12:09am by Penthesilea »

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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #22 - Nov 29^th, 2012 at 2:21am
	I hope I can still manage to use the cups but the molded "rubbery" material they're made of is not making it easy. I may have to completely enclose them in interfacing and fabric in order to use them.


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #23 - Nov 29^th, 2012 at 5:20am
	I've cut the back band down and will try again. Tomorrow. I'm yawning too much now.


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Penthesilea Forum Administrator Offline Warrior Queen, DarkLady, Phoenix, Ghostbuster Posts: 47422 Location: The Castle..... Joined: Jun 21^st, 2006 Gender:	Re: Belly dance costuming Reply #24 - Nov 29^th, 2012 at 5:42pm
	The back band is pinned into place and it both looks neat and it fits, so I'm going to put in enough stitches to keep everything in place while I continue "constructing." The straps are next and once I have them on right, I'll reinforce the cups with interfacing and start covering everything with satin and embellishments which is the fun part.


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