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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe (Read 14183 times)
Penthesilea
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The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Aug 9th, 2013 at 7:05pm
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Okay, I'm starting this thread so I can yak about my "special" sewing projects without cluttering up other threads. The pattern for the dress below [McCall's 3681] arrived today. The copyright on it is 2002 which explains why it was hard to find!
This dress and two others (Simplicity 2400: The Reception Dress and Butterick B4571: The Birthday Dress) will be the topics of this thread. My belly dance costumes will be discussed in the belly dance costume forum and any other "special" sewing project I may undertake will have it's own thread too. What can I say? I like to keep things neat!
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #1 - Aug 9th, 2013 at 7:14pm
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Now that the pattern is in my hot little hands, I can start gathering supplies. The outfit I will be making [shown below made up in white] looks like a dress but it's really separates which will make it a bit easier to make. The top buttons down the back so one thing I'll have to be on the lookout for is out of this world buttons. I'm also going to need boning, hem tape and maybe horsehair braid although the pattern doesn't call for it. I'm also gonna need trim and I'll probably use more than is called for in the pattern and I haven't decided if I want to try to replicate the sheer lower sleeves from the Goth Wedding Dress that got me started on all this. I've decided that if I enter the finished dress in the county fair's sewing competition, it will go in the "costume" division as a Mardi Gras costume which allows me to be a bit more extravagant with trim and detail than I would be for a "mundane" evening gown. And frankly "extravagant" suits me better!
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #2 - Aug 9th, 2013 at 7:28pm
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Absolutely GORGEOUS!!!
  


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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #3 - Aug 9th, 2013 at 8:07pm
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Yes it is and I fell in love with it the instant I saw it. I was damned lucky to be able to find the pattern, let alone find it in my "size range" since it's from 2002. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to line the skirt even though the pattern doesn't call for it. Since it is a skirt and top ensemble it would be hard to wear a full petticoat under it -- too much bulk at the waist -- so a lining that hangs freely from the waistband will serve the same purpose. The first thing to do is make up a worksheet that has everything that needs to be bought for it, what size/width/yardage and material where appropriate. 
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #4 - Aug 9th, 2013 at 10:26pm
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This pattern (McCall's 3681) is going to take some study and I may have to expand on the instructions since there are some things that aren't all that clear in the first read through. Smiley Good thing I have some time before I start putting it together. I'm also going to have to finagle with the layout since the brocade I want to use is a couple of inches narrower than what the pattern calls for. That could only be a problem with the overskirt. I'm thinking that I'd better budget for extra yardage.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #5 - Aug 10th, 2013 at 2:25am
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The pattern calls for all the trim on the top to be the same style but I have other ideas. I'm thinking of a narrow "gimp style" trim over the seams in the top and something different along the neckline. I keep thinking "pearls" but that would only work for white and I think a tiny splash of color might be needed. I've had good results in the past with beading a plain trim with small, silver lined, clear red beads and that idea is definitely on the table. The pattern calls for the overskirt to be edged in 2 to 2.25 inch double edged lace. I've been looking at metallic silver lace online and I've bookmarked a couple of "possibles." Lace is expensive to start with and "metallic lace" is moreso so I'm hoping that I can find some at Hancock's or JoAnne's when the time comes so I don't have to pay postage. Sale's tax is gonna be bad enough! Adding beadwork to the lace is also a possibility although I'll probably use clear beads rather than red ones if I do that.
« Last Edit: Aug 10th, 2013 at 2:29am by Penthesilea »  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #6 - Aug 10th, 2013 at 3:19am
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WD has pronounced the outfit "killer." That settles it. I must make the dress AND fit into it!
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #7 - Aug 10th, 2013 at 7:08pm
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I've been looking at lace and other trims online and so far, nothing is sparking the "THAT'S IT!!!/falling over backwards" response so I'll keep looking. At least the "contrast" fabric -- black taffeta -- will be easy to find and I'm hoping that the brocade I've picked looks as good in real life as it does online. I'll be seeing about getting it next month. I can store it until I need it.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #8 - Aug 10th, 2013 at 8:00pm
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This trim has caught my eye. It's 1.5 cm wide and I think that it would do for trimming the neckline of the dress, especially if I fill in some of the holes with little bright red beads. The price is $1.99 a yard, $1.89 a yard if I get 10 yards. I'm seriously considering it.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #9 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 1:00am
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Okay. I couldn't resist. I went ahead and ordered ten yards of this trim. I'm pretty sure that it is coming from China so it will be a while before I get it. I'll post when I do.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #10 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 2:28am
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I've been looking at wider silver lace trim for the front of the overskirt and I'm not finding anything that isn't either too wide, too narrow, too expensive or just not "right." I may have to start thinking "outside the box" to use a worn out cliche. I've found some black lace that would work but it would disappear against the black brocade so I'm wondering how to get around that problem. Outlining it with embroidery stitches in metallic silver thread is under consideration.....

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« Last Edit: Aug 11th, 2013 at 2:30am by Penthesilea »  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #11 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 3:03am
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I've given up on lace for the moment and moved on to the buttons. I'm looking at two different ones on amazon. These...
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #12 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 3:04am
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Or these...
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #13 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 3:06am
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I'm not passionately in love with either and the shipping charges are ridiculous. It looks like I may be hitting the fabric and hobby stores for this item too.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #14 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 3:10am
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The lace you ordered is GORGEOUS Penth! Cheesy That is going to look so pretty against the black fabric! Black and silver are one of my favorite color combos... If not the absolute favorite! LOL

The buttons are pretty, but yeah, when you find the right one, you'll know it. Wink
  


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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #15 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 3:33am
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I'm going to be adding some silver lined clear red beads to the lace to give it a tiny bit color. Not too much, just a little sparkle when the light hits it right.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #16 - Aug 11th, 2013 at 6:36pm
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I was chewing on the "lace problem" on the way to the movie this morning and it looks like my best bet is to get some satin ribbon the same size as the lace I get or a little wider and sew the lace to the ribbon and then embroider it. (It would certainly be easier to handle than doing the embroidery directly on the overskirt.) Then put the whole unit on the skirt. I don't think it likely that I'll find any metallic silver ribbon that can be used for apparel so I'll be using black lace on black satin ribbon. I'll be getting enough extra lace so if that idea doesn't work, I'll be able to start over.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #17 - Aug 12th, 2013 at 2:46am
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I'm considering this lace. It is 3.35 inches wide and $.99 a yard which, with the shipping factored in, is reasonable. I haven't decided yet but I have it in my browsing history.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #18 - Aug 12th, 2013 at 6:13pm
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Skywise has the really late shift three days this week -- so far -- and I've put in a request for an expedition to hit the hobby and fabric stores. I've already told him that if I find certain items -- like the perfect brocade or lace -- I'm going to get it. I've unfolded the pattern and now have answers to a couple of the main questions I had. I've also figured out how much extra lining fabric I'm going to need to line the skirt as well as the top. [Thus eliminating the need for a slip.] I'll also be looking at buttons and jewelry components that I can use to make something similar to THIS item which I would love to have and most likely can't afford!
« Last Edit: Aug 12th, 2013 at 10:44pm by Penthesilea »  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #19 - Aug 12th, 2013 at 10:43pm
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Discover arbitrarily changed my account number [necessitating contacting various vendors] and sent me a new card which is now activated so I'm all set to shop when I get a chance to.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #20 - Aug 13th, 2013 at 2:42am
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I'm toying with the idea of lowering the neckline of the dress a bit. I really like the amount of "exposure" the dress below provides but I'm not sure how much the original neckline will give me. There is a "muslin practice top" in my future I do believe....
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #21 - Aug 14th, 2013 at 3:37am
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Postal Service and Other Gods willing, I'll be looking for brocade fabric and lace tomorrow which are the two items most likely to be hard to find although I could be lucky. The lining fabric I'm going to use (a cotton/poly broadcloth) is easy to find and so is plain black taffeta so I'm going to concentrate on what could prove hard to find, especially the lace. I STILL would like to find something suitable in metallic silver for the overskirt since I have metallic silver for the neckline and I think I'll be putting some on the sleeves too.
  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #22 - Aug 14th, 2013 at 6:07pm
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The trip was productive. I didn't find any brocade and I'm inclining toward buying it online. Unfortunately, what I was looking at before is not currently available so I'll have to start hunting again if it isn't restocked. I was, however, able to get the taffeta which was expensive but on sale. I was also able to find some lace. It isn't EXACTLY what I was thinking of and it's black not silver but it's intricate and I think it will lend itself to embellishment very nicely. When I can get a photo of it I'll post it. I also picked up the style of zipper I wanted (invisible), the elastic for the sleeves (black) and the trim for the top that covers the seams where the sections of the top are joined together. I also got what will probably be the focal point of the choker I want to make. I wanted something with a blood red faceted stone as the centerpiece but couldn't find anything so unless I do between "now and then" I'll go with I got today. I'll be looking for a red faceted "drop" of some sort to add flash to it.
I was also thrilled to find something that I've been looking for literally for years -- extra wide, double fold SILVER METALLIC bias tape. I have a project that I regretfully abandoned because of a lack of silver metallic bias tape so now, that project may get put back on the schedule once the three outfits ahead of it are made.
« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2013 at 7:01pm by Penthesilea »  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #23 - Aug 14th, 2013 at 7:00pm
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Okay. The "lace problem" appears to be solved. I pulled out some remnants of silver tissue lame I have and laid the lace over it. Then I had Skywise look at it (he has a very good "eye" plus he can see a LOT better than I can!) and he agreed with me that putting the lace over the lame produced the effect I'm looking for. So tomorrow, I'll get three yards of tissue lame at Walmart to make the underlay strip. I want to do it with a continuous strip to avoid seams and creases. I have found tissue lame a PAIN IN THE BOOTIE to press and, naturally, the stuff takes a crease like a champion. Once I have the strip made I will very carefully sew the lace onto it. The result "should" from even a short distance look like a wide strip of embroidered trim.   
« Last Edit: Aug 14th, 2013 at 11:06pm by Penthesilea »  

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Re: The Lady Keyholder's Wardrobe
Reply #24 - Aug 14th, 2013 at 7:29pm
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I pout!

All the "to die for" buttons that I'm finding and REALLY love are "hand wash only." This presents a problem because while all the fabric and trim (so far) for this dress is machine wash delicate the finished outfit itself will be too large/heavy to hand wash and line dry even if it IS separates. It will have to be professionally dry cleaned. So.... I pout and keep on looking.....
  

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